Goodyear Welted Brogue - Dark Brown
We are not ones for flashy anything. We like the classics. Our boots are patterned after the military marching boots from the first World War. Military boots are a little more anatomically correct and close-fitting around the ankle than the sloppier cuts of modern "civilian" boots—thus the name we gave this cut of boots: Doughboys.
Our boots are all full grain leather. The grain is the outermost surface of the hide. It's the strongest and most valuable part of the hide and the best leather for anything that needs to be durable.
The "full" in full grain means that none of the grain has been cut off. All other types of leather are deeper and inferior cuts of the hide, usually resurfaced to look like they include the grain, but often they don't.
Goodyear Welt Construction
Goodyear welting is the traditional way shoes have been made for centuries, but it's named after the guy who invented a machine that could do the stitch that previously had to be done by hand. Even with a machine, it is a hard and labor-intensive way to make shoes, but it is far superior to the cheaper and more common practice of just gluing a pre-formed sole to the shoe upper.
The reason why a Goodyear welt is superior is because the sole portion is sewn to the upper, creating a mechanical bond that's more durable than glue alone. It is so durable that the sole will usually wear out before the shoe does. This being said, Goodyear welted shoes can be resoled many times.
Goodyear welted shoes generally cost more, but more than likely, they will last many times longer than a shoe of cheaper construction. When you consider the lifetime use of a well-made shoe over the shorter lifespan you can expect from a lower quality shoe, the better made shoe is usually less expensive in the long run.
The midsole is the part of the boot between your foot and the rubber (outsole).Ours are made of multiple layers of sole leather, trimmed, waxed and polished. Normally this sort of attention to detail is reserved for dress shoes but I think it is one of the features that really make these boots look nice.
Our outsoles are made from up-cycled used automobile tires.
Each boot outsole consists of two pieces: a 3/8" heel piece and a 1/4" half sole. Having two independent pieces of rubber means you can do a partial resole down the road (many miles down the road) and leave that beautiful midsole alone.
It takes a little more effort to make them this way, but it will save you money if you ever manage to wear them down enough to need them resoled. This boot has the refined look of a full leather sole and the grip and protection of a rubber one.
Many cheaper boot makers compensate for a thin cork bed with a synthetic foam athletic shoe liner which never molds to your foot.
When it comes to boot making, what's on the inside really does matter where comfort is concerned. Our boots have a thick cork bed over a thick leather and calfskin layered insole. Over time, the soft leather insole and thick cork bed will mold to your feet for a comfortable custom fit.
Our boots are fully lined with soft calfskin, including the tongue. Here are the other reasons our boots will be the most comfortable you’ve ever worn:
- Convex sole instead of a flat one so you roll out of each step instead of tripping over your own boots
- Removable padded insole to cradle and support your foot and keep your foot from slipping as you walk—the main cause of blisters
- Soft leather that does not need to be "broken in"
- Anatomically shaped tongue that wrinkles less
- Lace loop on the tongue to keep it from bunching down or slipping to the side